The Complete Guide to Perms, Wavy, Texture & Modern Perms
A complete guide to choosing, preparing for and looking after your perm
A perm can be much more than tight curls.
Modern perming can create soft waves, loose movement, natural-looking texture, volume, defined curls and different types of movement through the hair.
At House of Kingshott Hair Studio in Preston Park, Brighton, I offer a wide range of perm services, including traditional perms, modern perms, wavy perms, texture perms, shadow perms, men's perms, Korean-inspired waves and beach-wave perms.
The most important part of getting a perm isn't choosing a name from a menu.
It's deciding what you want your hair to do and then choosing the right approach for your individual hair.
Your natural texture, length, density, haircut, condition, previous chemical services and the result you're hoping to achieve can all affect the way a perm is planned.
This guide explains the different types of perms I offer, how I approach them, what to consider before booking and how to look after your hair afterwards.
What is a perm?
A perm is a chemical hair service that changes the shape and movement of the hair.
The hair is wrapped around rods or other appropriate tools in a particular pattern before being processed and neutralised.
The technique, rod size, placement, wrapping pattern and processing can all influence the finished result.
This means that two people can both have a perm but end up with completely different results.
A perm can be used to create:
waves
curls
texture
movement
volume
body
lift
definition
a more manageable styling shape
The finished result should be planned around your hair rather than simply copying somebody else's photograph.
What types of perm can you have?
There isn't one single type of perm.
Different techniques can create very different finishes.
Traditional Perm
A traditional perm is generally associated with a more defined and consistent curl pattern.
It can be suitable if you want the curl itself to be an obvious part of the finished hairstyle.
The finished result can still be adapted through rod selection, placement and wrapping.
Modern Perm
A modern perm can be designed to create a softer, more contemporary result.
Rather than thinking only about traditional curls, modern perming can be used to create movement, texture and waves that work with the haircut.
The finished result depends on your hair and what you're trying to achieve.
Wavy Perm
A wavy perm is designed to create movement and wave rather than a tight curl.
This can be ideal if you like the idea of textured hair but don't want a strongly curled result.
Wavy perms can range from subtle movement to a more noticeable wave.
The final result depends on the starting hair, length, density, technique and styling.
Texture Perm
A texture perm is designed to introduce movement, body and texture.
It doesn't necessarily create a uniform curl throughout the hair.
This can work particularly well for someone who wants their hair to have more shape but doesn't want an obviously "permed" appearance.
Shadow Perm
A shadow perm can be used to create movement and texture while keeping the result softer and more natural-looking.
The technique can be planned around specific areas of the haircut rather than automatically treating every section in exactly the same way.
Men's Perm
Men's perms can create everything from subtle movement and texture to more defined curls.
A men's perm isn't one specific hairstyle.
It can be adapted around:
haircut
length
density
natural texture
desired movement
styling routine
Some clients want a soft wave, while others want more obvious texture or curl.
Korean-Inspired Waves
Korean-inspired waves are generally associated with softer, controlled movement and a relaxed, contemporary finish.
The exact result will depend on your hair and the reference photograph you're working from.
Rather than trying to reproduce a photograph exactly, I'll look at what you like about the style and work out how that could translate to your own hair.
Beach-Wave Perm
A beach-wave perm is designed around a more relaxed, undone-looking wave.
The aim is generally movement and texture rather than a perfectly uniform curl pattern.
As with every perm, the result depends on your starting hair and the technique used.
Which type of perm is right for me?
You don't need to know the answer before your appointment.
In fact, I'd rather understand the result you're looking for first.
I want soft waves
A wavy perm could be appropriate.
I want natural-looking movement
A modern or texture approach may be worth considering.
I want more texture
A texture or shadow perm could be suitable.
I want defined curls
A traditional perm may be the better starting point.
I want a relaxed beachy finish
A beach-wave perm may be appropriate.
I want a contemporary men's style
A men's wavy, texture or modern perm could be considered.
I want a Korean-inspired wave
We can discuss the photograph you're drawn to and decide how that type of movement could work with your own hair.
I want more volume
Perming can be used to create body and movement rather than simply curl.
The final recommendation should always take your individual hair into account.
Can a perm look natural?
Yes.
A perm doesn't have to look obviously permed.
Natural-looking movement comes from choosing the right approach for the hair and desired result.
Rod size, placement, wrapping pattern, sectioning and the amount of movement being created can all affect the finished appearance.
The haircut matters too.
A good perm should work with the haircut rather than looking like a separate layer of curl placed over it.
Can I have a loose perm?
Yes, depending on your hair and the result you're looking for.
A loose perm is generally about creating movement rather than a tight curl.
However, "loose" doesn't mean one particular technique.
The result is influenced by the hair itself, the rod size, wrapping and processing.
If you have a photograph of the type of movement you like, bring it with you.
Can I have a wavy perm instead of curls?
A wavy perm can be designed to create more movement and less obvious curl.
This can be a good option if you want your hair to look naturally textured rather than strongly curled.
However, the result has to be considered against your natural hair.
What looks like a loose wave on one person's hair may behave very differently on another person's hair.
Can men have loose or wavy perms?
Yes.
Men's perms can be designed around softer waves, texture, movement or stronger curl.
The haircut and available length are particularly important.
Sometimes it may make sense to create movement only through certain areas of the hair rather than perming everything.
[LINK: Men's Perms in Brighton]
Can you perm only the top?
Sometimes.
If the sides aren't long enough to wrap appropriately but there is enough length through the top and upper back, it may be possible to concentrate the movement through selected areas.
The decision depends on the haircut, length and the shape we're trying to create.
This is why I assess the hair before deciding on the technique.
How long does hair need to be for a perm?
There isn't one universal minimum length.
The required length depends on:
the technique
rod size
wrapping method
haircut
desired result
amount of movement required
If you're unsure whether your hair is long enough, send a photograph or arrange a consultation.
Can straight hair be permed?
Yes.
Straight hair can be a good starting point for creating movement, waves, texture or curls.
The important question is what you want your hair to do afterwards.
Someone with naturally straight hair wanting a subtle wave will require a different approach from someone wanting defined curls.
Can fine hair be permed?
A carefully planned perm can introduce body, movement and texture into fine hair.
However, the condition of the hair still matters.
The aim isn't simply to make fine hair curly.
The technique needs to be appropriate for the hair and the finished result you're looking for.
Can thick hair be permed?
Yes, depending on the hair condition and desired result.
Thicker hair can work well with added movement and texture, but density affects the way the finished result behaves.
The technique needs to be planned around the amount of hair and the haircut.
Can short hair be permed?
Possibly.
There needs to be enough length for the chosen technique, but the amount required depends on the desired result.
Shorter hair can sometimes be approached with targeted texture rather than treating every section identically.
Can long hair be permed?
Yes, although longer hair introduces its own considerations.
Weight, density, existing texture and the condition of the ends can all affect the finished result.
The technique needs to be planned around the length and the movement you're trying to create.
Can coloured hair be permed?
It depends on the condition of the hair and the colour service you've had.
Previous chemical services can affect how suitable the hair is for perming.
If your hair has been heavily lightened or is compromised, a perm may not be appropriate.
The condition of the hair always comes first.
Can bleached hair be permed?
Bleached hair needs particular care when considering a perm.
Heavy lightening can affect the strength and condition of the hair.
This means a consultation is important before deciding whether the service is appropriate.
If I don't believe the hair is in a suitable condition for perming, I'll tell you.
Can highlighted hair be permed?
This depends on the amount of lightening and the condition of the hair.
Some highlighted hair may be suitable while other hair may not be.
It's something that needs to be assessed individually.
Can naturally curly or wavy hair be permed?
It depends on what you're trying to achieve.
If your hair already has natural movement, the purpose of the perm may be to enhance, change or redirect that movement rather than simply add more curl.
The consultation should focus on the result you want.
What happens during a perm consultation?
The consultation is an important part of the service.
I'll look at:
your current haircut
hair length
density
natural texture
growth patterns
hair condition
previous colour
previous chemical services
how you normally style your hair
your maintenance routine
the result you're hoping to achieve
Bring photographs if you have them.
We'll discuss what you like about the images and what you're hoping your own hair will do.
I'll then explain what I believe is realistically achievable.
Why can't you just copy a photograph?
A photograph shows the finished result, but it doesn't tell us everything about how it was created.
The person in the photograph may have:
different hair density
different hair length
different natural texture
different hair condition
a different haircut
different styling products
a different perm technique
I use photographs to understand what you're drawn to and then adapt the approach to your own hair.
How is a perm technique chosen?
The desired result comes first.
I'll consider factors including:
curl or wave desired
rod size
placement
wrapping pattern
sectioning
hair length
density
natural texture
haircut
hair condition
The aim isn't simply to choose a particular rod because a certain style is popular.
It's about creating the right amount and direction of movement for your hair.
What happens during the perm?
The exact process depends on the type of perm and the result being created.
The hair is prepared and wrapped using an appropriate technique.
The hair is then processed before being neutralised to establish the new shape.
The finishing stage is important too.
Once the chemical service is complete, the way the hair is dried and styled affects the appearance of the final result.
I'll explain how I'd recommend styling your new texture at home.
Does a perm damage your hair?
Perming is a chemical service, so it can affect the condition of the hair.
The effect depends on the starting condition of the hair and any previous chemical services.
This is why I assess the hair before deciding whether a perm is appropriate.
If the hair isn't suitable, I would rather say so than carry out a service that could compromise its condition.
How long does a perm last?
There isn't one guaranteed lifespan for every perm.
It depends on:
your natural hair
the type of perm
the strength of the result
how quickly your hair grows
washing routine
styling routine
products
individual hair characteristics
As your hair grows, your natural texture becomes visible at the roots while the previously permed hair retains its altered shape.
What happens when a perm grows out?
A perm doesn't simply disappear overnight.
New hair grows with your natural texture while the previously permed hair retains some of the movement or curl.
The transition depends on your natural texture and the type of perm you've had.
Your haircut and styling routine can also affect how noticeable the change is.
Can I colour my hair after a perm?
Chemical services need to be considered carefully together.
The timing and suitability of colour after perming depends on the condition of the hair and the colour service involved.
Rather than following a universal rule, it's better to discuss your particular hair and services.
Perm aftercare
Looking after your hair properly after a perm can help you get the most from your new texture.
The first 48 hours
I recommend waiting 48 hours before washing your hair after your perm.
This gives the hair time to settle into its new shape.
During this period, avoid unnecessarily disturbing the new texture.
Use your fingers
After washing, use your fingers to gently separate and encourage the curls or waves.
Avoid aggressively brushing through dry curls or waves.
Products
Depending on your hair and the result we've created, I use and recommend products from MOOD where appropriate.
These can include:
Intense Repair Shampoo
Intense Repair Mask
curl creams
salt spray
serum
leave-in spray
curl styling products
You won't necessarily need every product.
I'll recommend the products that make sense for your hair.
Air drying
Allowing your hair to air dry can create a softer, more relaxed finish.
Diffusing
A diffuser can help encourage and define the natural movement while the hair dries.
I'll show you how I'd recommend drying your hair at home.
Sleeping with permed hair
A silk or satin pillowcase can help reduce friction while you sleep.
The aim is to reduce unnecessary disturbance to the hair.
[LINK: Full Perm Aftercare Guide]
Common perm mistakes
Brushing curls when they're dry
This can disturb the curl pattern and create unnecessary frizz.
Using too much product
More product doesn't necessarily create better results.
The right amount depends on your hair and the finish you're trying to achieve.
Using excessive heat
Your new texture doesn't need to be constantly restyled.
Excessive heat can affect the condition of the hair.
Fighting the texture
A perm is designed to change the way your hair moves.
Working with the new texture rather than constantly trying to straighten it usually produces a better result.
Ignoring hair condition
Not every head of hair is suitable for a perm.
Hair condition needs to come first.
Men's perm questions
Can I have a men's perm with a fade?
This depends on the length and structure of the haircut.
There needs to be enough hair available for the chosen technique.
Can I have a men's perm only on the top?
Sometimes.
If the top has sufficient length and the sides don't, concentrating the texture through selected areas may create a better result.
Can a men's perm look natural?
Yes.
A men's perm can be designed around soft movement and texture rather than tight curls.
Can I have a men's perm if my hair is straight?
Yes, depending on the length and condition of your hair.
Can I have a men's perm if my hair is coloured?
This needs to be assessed before the service.
How do I know which men's perm to choose?
You don't have to know.
Bring photographs of what you like and we'll work out what elements of the look could work with your own hair.
[LINK: Men's Perms in Brighton]
Wavy perm questions
Will a wavy perm give me beach waves?
It can create a beach-wave style depending on the technique and your starting hair.
However, no two heads of hair will respond exactly the same way.
Will a wavy perm look natural?
A wavy perm can be designed to create soft, natural-looking movement.
The technique needs to be appropriate for your hair.
Can I have a wavy perm if my hair is very straight?
Yes, provided the hair is suitable for the service.
Can I have a wavy perm on short hair?
Possibly, depending on the length and desired result.
[LINK: Wavy Perms in Brighton]
Texture perm questions
What's the difference between a texture perm and a traditional perm?
A traditional perm is generally associated with a more defined curl pattern, while a texture perm is focused more on movement, body and texture.
The exact result depends on the technique used.
Does a texture perm look like a perm?
It can be designed to look much softer and more natural than the traditional idea of a perm.
Is a texture perm suitable for men?
Yes.
Texture perming can be particularly useful when the aim is to introduce movement without creating a uniform curl.
When I wouldn't recommend a perm
A perm isn't automatically suitable just because you like the finished look.
I may advise against perming if the hair isn't in an appropriate condition or if the requested result isn't realistic for the starting hair.
Previous chemical services, particularly significant lightening, may affect suitability.
Sometimes the best professional advice is to wait, improve the condition of the hair or consider a different approach.
I'd rather give you an honest answer than promise a result your hair can't safely or realistically achieve.
Real House of Kingshott perm transformations
I believe real client work is one of the best ways to understand what different perm techniques can achieve.
I'll be adding examples of real House of Kingshott clients showing different starting points, techniques and finished results.
Where appropriate, each transformation can explain:
what the client's hair was like beforehand
what they wanted
what we discussed
why a particular technique was chosen
how the hair was finished
what products were recommended
how the client can maintain the result
My approach to perming
I don't believe in choosing a perm simply because it is currently popular.
The starting point is always the individual client.
I want to understand what you want your hair to do, assess the hair in front of me and then decide what approach is appropriate.
Sometimes that means creating more curl.
Sometimes it means creating a softer wave.
Sometimes it means creating texture only through particular areas.
Sometimes it means using a completely different approach.
And sometimes the right professional decision is not to perm the hair.
The aim is to create a result that works with your hair, your haircut and the way you want to wear it.
Thinking about having a perm in Brighton?
House of Kingshott Hair Studio is a private one-to-one hair studio in Preston Park, Brighton.
I offer traditional, modern, wavy, texture, shadow, men's, Korean-inspired and beach-wave perms.
If you're not sure which type would suit you, you don't need to decide before you book.
Bring your inspiration photographs and we'll talk through what you're hoping to achieve.
I'll assess your hair and give you an honest opinion on what I believe is achievable.